French biotech company Global Bioenergies announced the upcoming launch of its “LAST®” longwear cosmetics brand in June 2021. Eighteen products will comprise the world’s first range of longwear, transfer-resistant and waterproof eye make-up to use natural ingredients. This groundbreaking performance is based on the renewable isododecane produced by the Company as the main ingredient of its formulations. Products have been designed with over 90% natural ingredients and packaging to minimise their environmental footprint.
Late 2019, Global Bioenergies installed a cosmetics formulation unit in its Evry R&D lab, which produced the first eye make-up prototypes to achieve long-hold performance with natural ingredients. It then put together a special-purpose team of experts covering all aspects of the cosmetics industry, including formulation, regulation, packaging, artistic direction, marketing, communications and e-commerce.
Prototypes were refined and went into industrial production at one of Europe’s leading make-up manufacturers. Packaging made from mineral (glass or metal), biosourced or recycled materials was specified, designed and prototyped.
The LAST® brand currently has three categories of product: mascaras, eyebrow mascaras and eye shadows, all lasting at least 24 hours. Allowing for the different colours, the full range has 18 products, now in production in a French plant.
Marc Delcourt, Chief Executive Officer of Global Bioenergies, explained: “In make-up, isododecane is essential to give the product the properties required for long wear. It is the main ingredient, comprising 25-50% of formulations. By using the renewable isododecane we produce through our innovative process and by making sure the other ingredients are natural, we have thus been able to develop an eye make-up range that for the first time combines long-lasting wear with over 90% natural ingredients. This meant rapidly incorporating a whole new set of professional skills, a challenge we embraced with agility and discipline.”
Muriel Morelli, head of product development, stated: “Our motto since the start of the project was ‘Natural, yes, but no compromise on performance’. Working in-house and with our manufacturer, we produced a host of prototypes and ran them through different types of tests: instrumental, sensory and in-use. The in-use trials were blinded, using consumer volunteers who were highly appreciative of all the product’s qualities: performance (long-lasting, intense colours) and feeling (easy application, nice texture and day-long comfort). Based on all these results, we can today claim that the performance of this over-90% naturally sourced range matches that of the best products on the market.”
Romain Desfresnes, head of strategy, marketing and communications, added: “From biotech to beauty we have taken a big leap forward. LAST® is both a technological achievement, a bold commitment to the environmental transition, and a celebration of colours. Our colours stand out. This means the brand can stand tall and live up to its claims: Colours that last. COLORS THAT LAST is an attitude, a call-out to everyone making a statement, anyone who dares to play with the codes and rewrite the rules. The range goes on sale in June through our website: www.colors-that-last.com.”
There are plans to start expanding the range as from the second half of 2021: a wide range of liquid lipstick, also combining long wear with a highly natural product, is in the pipeline.